Hotels + Resorts Mountain + Ski Resorts This Mountain Gets Double the Snow of Most Ski Areas — and Has the Longest Double Black Diamond in America Get ready for a real leg burner. By Evie Carrick Evie Carrick Evie Carrick is a writer and editor who’s lived in five countries and visited well over 50. She now splits her time between Colorado and Paris, ensuring she doesn't have to live without skiing or L'As du Fallafel. Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines Updated on October 23, 2024 Close Photo: Sun Pow/Courtesy of Alyeska Resort Skiing or snowboarding in Alaska is at the top of most winter sports enthusiasts' wish lists. And while the state is best known for its helicopter-accessed big-mountain terrain, I took a more conservative approach for my first trip with a visit to Alyeska Resort — the biggest ski resort in Alaska. The grand château-style resort sits at the base of the 40-passenger aerial tram, the most direct way of accessing the ski area’s notoriously steep and deep terrain; Alyeska has beginner areas, but it's great for intermediate and advanced skiers. Across more than 1,600 skiable acres are 76 named trails, among them the North Face, North America’s longest continuous double-black-diamond ski run. On my first ski day, six inches of fresh snow fell, a total that had me, a longtime Colorado skier, excited. It turns out the Alyeska regulars don’t get excited unless there are more than eight inches of fresh, an entitlement born out of the fact the ski area sees 669 inches of annual snowfall on average. During the 2023–2024 ski season, the resort's upper mountain saw more than 727 inches of snow (more than 60 feet!) Alyeska lives up to its “steep and deep” tagline with predominantly expert, black-diamond terrain and an average of 669 inches of annual snowfall. Oh, and it has the longest continuous double-black-diamond run in North America.There’s a mountaintop restaurant complete with tasting menu overlooking seven “hanging” glaciers.A 50,000-square-foot Nordic spa at the base of the ski area is a destination in itself — or a great excuse to cut your ski day short and warm up.The vistas here are as memorable as the skiing; from the slopes, you can see mountains, glaciers, and the ocean — and maybe even the northern lights. With another deep winter on tap, here’s everything you need to know to book a trip to Alyeska Resort, including what to eat, where to play off the mountain, and most importantly, where to ski. Max Durtschi/Courtesy of Alyeska Resort When to Go The ski season at Alyeska usually runs from late November to late April. To enjoy one of the resort's notorious powder days, the best time to visit is in January or February when the ski area typically sees the most snow. Good skiing continues into March and April. If you want to party, visit on closing weekend in late April for Spring Carnival, featuring costume contests, live music, and the beloved Alaska Airlines Slush Cup; this pond skim has been a fixture of the festivities since the late '70s. Courtesy of Alyeska Where to Stay Alyeska Resort It’s hard to recommend anything other than Alyeska Resort, which is part of the ski area and provides the best access to the mountain (plus an unbelievable Nordic spa) — it's no surprise this hotel was voted one of the best resorts in the western U.S. by T+L readers. All guests have access to a northern lights concierge who will alert you to aurora viewings, and those who book a room in the Black Diamond Club, which opened in June 2024, can avail themselves of a private concierge, complimentary breakfast and drinks, and a VIP ski valet. Girdwood Vacation Rentals If you’re not staying at Alyeska Resort, your best bet is to stay in the town of Girdwood, which butts up against the southern side of the ski area. You can walk to the base and quickly hop on the Ted’s Express chairlift from many of the vacation rentals on Airbnb. Where to Eat Jack Sprat At Jack Sprat, a Girdwood spot that serves up "fat and lean world cuisine," all the seafood comes from Alaska and is sustainably caught, and the menu changes based on what's available. The restaurant has just as many options for meat eaters as it does for vegans, and the vibe is warm, welcoming, and hip. Seven Glaciers Eating a meal at Seven Glaciers is just as unforgettable as a ski day at Alyeska. The AAA Four Diamond Award restaurant sits atop Mt. Alyeska and is accessed by the aerial tram, which is an experience in itself. In addition to a multicourse prix fixe chef's tasting menu and award-winning wine list, Alyeska general manager Kara Edwards says the restaurant offers "unparalleled views of seven hanging glaciers." Reservations are a must. Forte Alaska Forte is Alyeska Resort's all-day dining restaurant, and it does a great job catering to all diets, including vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free. Depending on the season, you might find scrambled tofu and wild berry pancakes at breakfast, and lunch and dinner dishes such as a halibut and prawn panzanella salad and cheese ravioli in brown butter. Courtesy Girdwood Brewing Company Where to Après-ski Girdwood Brewing Company For a traditional brewery within walking distance of the ski area base, head to Girdwood Brewing Company. The timber-framed taproom has craft beer galore (plus root beer and kombucha) and a rotating cadre of food trucks — including crepes, ramen, pizza, and Mexican fare. If you want a bite with your beer, check out the food truck schedule here. Chair 5 Chair 5, also known as “The Dive,” is the local hangout. It’s been in operation since 1983 and has the wall-to-wall memorabilia to prove it. Soak up the rustic vibe and play a round of pool after a tough ski day. In addition to being Girdwood’s go-to watering hole, Chair 5 also has a separate dining room and a reputation for excellent deep-dish pizza. Sitzmark Bar & Grill Sitzmark, which is part of Alyeska Resort, sits in the southern base area. It’s the mountain’s go-to après spot, with a menu of warming winter cocktails. Try the Nutty Irishman, made with hazelnut schnapps, Irish cream, and coffee. Kristian L. Irey/Courtesy of Alyeska Resort Off-mountain Activities Soothe your muscles at Alyeska Nordic Spa. When the 50,000-square-foot Alyeska Nordic Spa opened at the resort in 2023, it caused waves. Not only is it Alaska’s first Nordic spa, but it's become a destination in its own right, drawing Alaskans and visitors to its hot and cold hydrotherapy pools. The full-day spa experience is set outside, at the base of the ski area, and is surrounded by the northernmost rain forest. For a shorter, less expensive soak, book the Twilight Soak, which runs from 5 to 9 p.m. Zip around on a snowmobile. One of the most memorable things I did in Alaska was a snowmobile tour around a private gold mine. The trip, which was led by Glacier City Snowmobile Tours, was a short drive from town and included a fire pit lunch that was crashed by a rogue Alaskan husky who freely roams the basin and once saved someone’s life. The guiding company also takes people to the blue glaciers, icebergs, and ice caves of the Alaskan backcountry. Feel the thrill of heli-skiing. If you want to go beyond the confines of the ski area, Edwards recommends booking a heli-ski tour, which conveniently departs from the resort’s helicopter port. The excursions are available between February and April, snow dependent, and provide deeper access to the world-famous Chugach Mountain Range. Take an awe-inspiring glacier cruise. Starting in mid-February, winter visitors to Alyeska can book a glacier cruise up Blackstone Bay, a scenic fjord carved by retreating glaciers. The boat ride includes a visit to two tidewater glaciers, Beloit and Blackstone, and numerous waterfalls. Along the way, you’ll see sea otters and harbor seals and experience a walk through Alaska’s surprisingly thick and lush rain forest. Christopher Corbin/Getty Images How to Ride Lift Tickets If you have the Ikon Pass, you’re in luck: Those with a seven-day pass can ski at Alyeska Resort with no blackout dates. Ikon Base Pass holders can ski Alyeska for five days with select blackout dates. Alyeska Resort is also available on the two-, three-, and four-day Ikon Session Pass (also with blackout dates). Adult full-day midweek lift tickets start at $109. Half-day tickets start at $99, and night skiing (4 to 8 p.m.) starts at $69. Ski and Snowboard Rentals There are two on-resort ski rental spots — the Daylodge in the southern base area and the rental shop within Alyeska Resort hotel (the latter is for hotel guests only). At either location, a basic setup (skis or snowboard and helmet) will run you $72 for a day. For a non-resort option, check out Powder Hound, a ski shop at Alyeska’s southern base, where skis or a snowboard and helmet costs $55. Skiing and Snowboarding Info Alyeska has just seven lifts, including the 40-passenger aerial tram, and 1,610 skiable acres. It isn’t anywhere close to the size of North America’s larger resorts, but Alyeska’s 76 named trails don’t encompass all of the skiable terrain. “The popular Glacier Bowl creates a blank canvas to carve our tracks,” says Edwards. Programming Alyeska’s terrain can be intimidating, even for advanced skiers, but it’s worth noting that much of the lower mountain consists of blues and greens, and there are two magic carpets; this area offers some of the best skiing in Alaska for beginners. Edwards says the ski area’s snow sport school has “classes for skiers as young as four, [and] uses the award-winning approach to ski and snowboarding teaching the Terrain Based Learning Method.” There are also teen-specific classes, adult groups, and private lessons.