Argentina, tango and gauchos

Apr. 08 2013

by Laurence Ogiela / TÊTU

Argentina has two mythical figures: the gaucho and the tanguero. Males as we like them: virile, sexy and mysterious. To find the first one, you don't need to venture to Patagonia, you just have to go to the pampas. This immense fertile plain extends from the province of Buenos Aires to that of Cordoba, in the center of the country.

There are estancias that welcome tourists who wish to experience the gaucho way of life. These farms, dedicated to agriculture or cattle breeding, have luxurious mansions of English, French or Italian style, heritage of the 19th century settlers.

El Colibrí, in the province of Córdoba, an hour and fifteen minutes flight from Buenos Aires, is the perfect refuge to live the life of Argentine cowboys. This charming estancia, owned by a Franco-Argentine family, is more of a luxury farm-hotel and member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux circle.

Between Far West atmosphere and gentleman farmer, we play the adventure chic and without risk. On the program: sheep shearing, milking cows, horseback riding and polo lessons. Juan, in a checkered shirt, leather boots and traditional belt, beret screwed on his head, initiates us to the capture of sheep with a lasso. Not easy. He ends up catching one for us and starts to shear the poor frightened animal. A quarter of an hour later, he hands us a thick skin that would make a new and fragrant carpet in our living room. After the practical work on the farm, it's time for a wild ride in the pampas.

The next day, polo lessons. This time, Mauro, with his dark eyes and charming smile, is in charge of teaching us this equestrian sport normally reserved for an elite. Perched on a magnificent stallion, helmet on the head, stick in the hand, we almost feel like a British prince. Now, all the difficulty lies in standing on the horse while trying to hit the ball. After an hour of practice, the movements are more fluid, but the muscles are irreparably sore. We give up!

To recover from the exercise, we are prepared a delicious asado, the barbecue of the pampa. The marbled and grilled meats melt in the mouth. The only thing missing is a milonga campera, a gaucho dance accompanied by the traditional rhythms at the origin of the tango. But for this experience, you must return to Buenos Aires.

Tango, mi amor
Because the Argentine capital is inseparable from tango, both its historical cradle and its world capital. It has become more fashionable again and expresses the hopes and disappointments of Argentines. And it occupies a large place in the cultural revival of the movida porteña. The dance classes are full, and the milongas, these ballrooms dedicated to tango, are crowded every night of the week.

Old tangueros and beginners, tourists and porteños, heteros and homos, everywhere people mix to the sometimes melancholic, sometimes hysterical sound of the bandoneons. There are different schools of tango. The most popular is the milonguero style which insists on the game between the dancers. The tension between the partners can be felt as they look at each other with great meaning.

Because tango is a real fight, sensual, playful, mysterious and exciting in many ways. Legend has it that tango was born in the brothels and sailors' bars of La Boca, where immigrants danced it between men, imitating singular fights. Nowadays, in this Latin and colorful Montmartre, couples of street dancers bait the tourist in front of El Caminito, for a few pesos.

But it is the popular barrio of San Telmo which is one of the privileged places of the amateurs of tango. The smile of Carlos Gardel, its most illustrious singer, who is reputed to be gay, is fixed on all the murals and signs of the neighborhood.

On Sundays, the Plaza Dorrego is filled with street dancers who perform in the middle of the flea market. And on Wednesday nights, Augusto Balizano organizes the queer tango La Marshall at the Independencia club, a typical milonga. The ramshackle room with its creaky floor fills up by 9pm for Augusto's class.

Porteños, foreigners, men and women, and even straight people come here to learn to dance, practice or experiment. You can choose your role: guide or be guided. Breathing in tune, staggered faces, gazes lost in the vague, the tango is a fiery body to body. The milonga queer La Marshall knows today such a success that it takes place from now on also on Friday in the center of Buenos Aires.

"Tango is a sad thought that is danced", say the Argentines. However the porteñas nights, oh so sensual, also resound of joy of living and sensuality.