Proud remnants

Paestum (Italy), June 2017

Now a major archaeological site, the ancient city of Paestum, on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, was originally founded under the name of Poseidonia by Greek settlers in the area of southern Italy then known as Magna Graecia. It was subsequently conquered by local Italic tribe the Lucanians -- and eventually by the Romans, who gave it its current name. Due to changes in land drainage patterns, which slowly turned its port into a malarial swamp, the city started to fall into decline between the fourth and the seventh century. It was finally abandoned in the Early Middle Ages, after being partly destroyed by raids from Saracen pirates, then by attacks from the Norman knights during their conquest of southern Italy. Because of the fear inspired by malaria, the deserted city remained largely untouched throughout the centuries, so that its ruins are exceptionally well-preserved. Paestum is especially famous for its three Greek temples, dating from about 600 to 450 BC.

On this picture, the paved road going past the "Temple of Poseidon" (actually dedicated to Hera) may be in a relative state of disrepair -- but possibly not more so than it had been during the years of decadence of Paestum, when the city held onto the shadow of its former grandeur. A stroll through the site when the afternoon draws to an end offers a compelling and melancholy travel back in time.