The New York Pizzerias We Still Miss

When Eater NY’s epic rundown — NYC’s Top Pizza Slices, Mapped — was first published in 2018, there were 85 neighborhood pizzerias on the list. Circling back to that list today, I discovered that 28 had closed, a profound loss for neighborhoods, since in many cases, they will never be replaced.

“The secret to longevity is a combination of tradition and reinvention,” Mahira Rivers reported for Eater NY in a piece on the decline of neighborhood pizzerias. “Regardless of how they made it this far, the future of these businesses hangs in the balance. Their fate lies not just in the skillful navigation of a changing industry, but in the willingness of the next generation to carry the torch, or, in this case, the Bakers Pride deck ovens. Every time a family calls it quits, the city loses more than a great slice of pizza: It cedes a living piece of its history to the vast, unknowable past.”

Accordingly, we have set up a little homage for these late, great pizzerias, with a brief description of their distinguishing features.

Astoria: Steinway Pizza offered orange seats on the Formica booths — classic neighborhood pizzeria décor. Best was the white slice, its mozzarella topped with islands of ricotta, and powerfully flavored with garlic. 31-51 Steinway Street, near Broadway

Bedford-Stuyvesant: Pizza Chef was an ancient pizza parlor that lavished each slice with extra cheese, and did a special job on such local favorites as barbecue chicken pizza. 1512 Fulton Street, at Throop Avenue

Clinton Hill: Tony’s Pizza Spot showed its age via a menu that didn’t subscribe to the latest pizza fads (no Buffalo chicken pizza, for example). 431 Dekalb Avenue, at Classon Avenue

Cobble Hill: Proudly proclaiming itself the oldest pizzeria on Smith Street, Caruso’s also functioned as an a Italian restaurant, but the pizza was particularly good, featuring fresh mozzarella. 150 Smith Street, at Bergen Street

Elmhurst: Since 1968, Gino’s Pizza lingered beside Elmhurst’s busiest bus stop. Vegetarian was the way to go here, via a series of pies in a slightly smaller circumference, including an irresistible eggplant slice. 86-35 Broadway, at Justice Avenue

Elmhurst: Flaunting a nautical theme, Pizza Bella stood out among the Southeast Asian cafes. The plain cheese slice sported a carefully calculated interplay of cheese, sauce, and crust. 8130 Broadway, at 82nd Street

Financial District: Founded in 2011, Georgio’s Pizza was master of the thick, lush pie. The chicken and spinach, for example. 20 Beaver Street, at Broad Street

Fordham Manor: For 49 years Brother’s occupied a prime spot in Fordham Manor, with the elevated 4 train overhead. The plain slice was thin crusted and cheesy, and the sauce was practically unseasoned, which was just fine. 27 E. Kingsbridge Road, at Morris Avenue

Fordham Manor: University Pizza & Restaurant was been a longtime favorite of Fordham students. The topping selection was paltry, but the plain cheese slice was truly excellent. 574 E. Fordham Road, at Hoffman Street

Fort Greene: Pipitone’s Pizza Restaurant served an upside-down Sicilian that became something of a local legend, with the copious cheese nestled next to the crust under the onslaught of sweet, deeply red sauce. 100 Dekalb Avenue, at Ashland Place

Gowanus: Tomato N Basil was a pocket-size pizzeria that excelled at modern notions of neighborhood pizza. The eggplant and chicken-ricotta pies were both worth sampling. 226 Fourth Avenue, at Union Street

Greenpoint: Are you a fan of the white slice? The narrow Italy’s Pizza— with a stamped-tin ceiling and other features that telegraphed its age — specialized in these slices. 800 Manhattan Avenue, at Calyer Street

Hamilton Heights: Offering virtually no place to sit and eat, Olga’s was nevertheless mobbed during the day with neighborhood types, who used it as a sort of stand-up social club. The slice was uber-cheesy. 3409 Broadway, at 138th Street

Jackson Heights: While most neighborhood pizzerias originated in the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, Mario’s was founded in 2015. Grandma slices were better than most, but the plain cheese slice was the real triumph. 77-09 37th Avenue, at 77th Street

Long Island City: Established in 1981, Polito’s Pizza concocted a lush tomato sauce, flecked with little bits of garlic and onion, and the cheese was exemplary, too. 34-23 Steinway Street, at Broadway

Lower East Side: The crust was thicker, stiffer, and more browned at at Rosario’s Pizza, founded in 1963. For the meat lover, there was a slice with pepperoni and Italian sausage, buoyed by mozzarella. 173 Orchard Street, near Stanton Street

Midtown: Belmora offered a large dining room and a sunny southern exposure. Its forte was unexpected combinations of ingredients, including a great pepperoni and black olive slice. 139 E. 57th Street, near Lexington Avenue

Midtown: Luigi’s Gourmet Pizza had deep Sicilian roots and the best offerings fell among the square slices, including the musketa — tomatoes and onions on a thick bed of cheese. 936 Eighth Avenue, near 56th Street

Morningside Heights: Tom’s Delicious Pizza, founded in 1998, turned out spectacular cheese slices. The crust was ultra-thin and crisp and the cheese thicker than usual. 3161 Broadway, neat Tiemann Place

Prospect Heights; Bergen Pizza saw progress overtake it, engulfed by the Atlantic Yards developments. The thing to get was the Sicilian slice. Salads were unexpectedly spot-on. 67 Sixth Avenue, at Bergen Street

Rego Park: TuArepa Pizza Cafe remained uncommonly solid, including a plain slice with extra cheese, a narrow crust, and a delightfully bland tomato sauce. 100-22 67th Avenue, near Queens Boulevard

Staten Island: Decades-old Staten Island Pizza D’Oro displayed a glass case filled with pies that ramped up pizza’s richness, many available by the slice, with lasagna pizza the favorite. 3115 Victory Boulevard, near Richmond Avenue

Times Square: Kiss My Slice was modern neighborhood pizza parlor that flaunts its creativity, as seen its epic fried chicken and waffle slice, with a dribble of syrup. 274 W. 40th Street, at Eighth Avenue

Upper East Side: Luigi’s Pizzeria was a mainstay that had been pumping out the slices since 1997, offering a sauce slightly sweeter and chunkier than average. A favorite was the grandma slice. 1701 First Avenue, at East 88th Street

Washington Heights: The slogan was, “Keep this place in mind, a better pizza is hard to find.” Como Pizza was one of those tiny places where the main output is cheese slices scooped up the minute they come from the oven. 4035 Broadway, near 170th Street

West Bronx: Napoli’s Best Pizza across from the bus stop was usually thronged with locals enjoying the neighborhood’s best pizza. The crust here was beautifully browned. 521 E. Tremont Avenue, at Third Avenue

Williamsburg: Champion Pizza is a mini-chain (other branches remain open) with one slice that features alternate bands of green pesto and red tomato sauce, like a Morris Lewis painting. This location is closed. 187 Bedford Avenue, near North Seventh Street

Williamsburg: Named after a district in Venice, San Marco Pizzeria was perhaps the most elegant establishment of its type, with seating mainly at a polished granite counter. 577 Lorimer Street, near Metropolitan Avenue