Old People Exploring Chicago Restaurants

Summer 2024

G.P. Gottlieb
Crow’s Feet

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Pretty sure I snapped this photo at Trivoli Tavern, Chicago

A couple of months ago, Eldest Daughter wondered if we were getting a little too homebound as we aged, and asked, “How often do you go out for dinner?”

“Maybe once a month,” said David. “Mom likes to cook, only eats vegetarian out, and thinks that restaurants have gotten too expensive. Also, she doesn’t like the tiny portions.”

“That’s crazy,” said Eldest Daughter. “You live in one of the great culinary cities in the world, and I bet you just keep going to the same two or three restaurants.”

“Yup,” I said. “Mostly in our neighborhood.”

“Here’s what needs to happen,” she said. “You’re retired and should be having fun! Chicago is one of the great culinary cities in the world. You should choose a date to go out every week, and I’ll make the reservations.”

We looked at each other and shrugged. This could be interesting, a reason to go out. We already had a few dinner plans with friends (one out at the Oakbrook Mall, another up in the north suburbs) so we couldn’t take her suggestions every week, but here are the first five Chicago restaurants we visited:

1. Rooh on South Randolph is owned by the Good Times Restaurant Group (Good Times Burger, Frozen Custard, and Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar). We went with good friends (Arna and Steve) and enjoyed the best paneer we’d ever tasted. Lots of veggie choices but not enough choices of the kinds of Indian breads that make your mouth water. The portions were small like we’ve been seeing everywhere. Still, we all thought it was a good meal.

2. Trivoli Tavern on Green Street is part of the Hogsalt Group (they do Au Cheval etc.) The atmosphere is a “speakeasy,” and it was packed on a Tuesday night. The alley entrance reminded us of the Museum of Science and Industry’s “old-time alley,” and we (including our friends, Rachel and Chuck) were among the oldest people there. The menu is varied and fun, not at all gourmet or healthful but there were lots of vegetarian options. As a bonus, we ran into the orthodontist who straightened most of our children’s teeth.

3. Beatnik on the River (Bonhomme Hospitality owns Casa Beatnik Hotel, Tribu (Casa Beatnik Hotel), Bambola (Casa Beatnik Hotel), Kashmir, Bambola (Fulton Market District), Coquette, GoodFunk, Porto, Mama Delia, Beatnik West Town, Beatnik On The River, Bordel and Botánico.) We wanted to go out with old Hyde Park friends, Julie and Ben, and the river is a good in-between spot between the north and south side of Chicago. None of the river restaurants are top-notch (says Eldest Daughter), but they’re all packed (especially in the summer) and fun-filled. We might have spent a fortune on those little sharing plates so many restaurants are offering these days, but none of us wanted to drink for one reason or another. For anyone complaining about the cost of restaurant food, I suggest you have a glass of wine before you go out. And another when you get home, if that’s your jam. Then you can try, as we did, nearly every single vegetarian dish on the menu! All delicious.

4. Mott Street:
Taking inspiration from the night markets of Asia and his Korean American childhood, Chef Edward Kim pairs eastern cooking techniques with Chicago ingredients to create umami-laden flavors, juxtaposing tastes and textures for a wildly exciting menu.” One of my high school besties (Debra and her husband, Joe) joined us in Wicker Park for an excellent dinner with a bunch of vegetarian choices (plus what Eldest Daughter says is the best hamburger in town: $22 including a beer). I’m a cancer survivor and can only have a couple of drinks per week, but even I was tempted with an exquisite mixed cocktail involving Lichi and Gin. I know it sounds weird but whoa, it was good. All four of us loved the outdoor patio, the excellent service, and everything about it. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

5. Boka “Boka Restaurant Group Founded by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm in 2002, one of the premier chef-driven restaurant groups in the country. Anchored by partnerships with six of America’s great chefs, Giuseppe Tentori, Stephanie Izard, Chris Pandel, Lee Wolen, Gene Kato, and Michael Solomonov.” We already had tickets with Debra and Joe to see Rachel Bloom’s show about Death at Steppenwolf Theater, so dinner reservations were down the block, at Boka. Great location, very elegant, but only two vegetarian choices on the menu. We shared the first one; gnudi, a gnocchi-like pasta, filled with herbed ricotta and swimming in a rich, creamy sauce. My second course was a presentation of mushrooms topped with lentils in another, equally impressive sauce. Four of us split a piece of the rich, also creamy, and extravagant chocolate cake-like something-or-other that had a fancy-sounding name. Lovely service, but my tummy hurt from all that richness, and I never need to go back.

We’re traveling now, but we’ll be back soon for more Restaurant Club events. My takeaways from the experiment so far? I understand serving small dinner portions, but wish restaurants weren’t so stingy with dessert. Also, it’s hard to get away with spending less than $100 for dinner in one of Chicago’s top-notch restaurants. Nearly ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS!!!

For those who are complaining about how terrible the economy is doing, I’d like to know why so many young people are filling these expensive restaurants every night of the week. We’re happy with dinner at 5:30 pm (which is when we’re more likely to be able to get in), but all over Chicago, business is booming. Quite a difference from a few years ago….

We know how lucky we are to be healthy enough (so far) to enjoy our retirement, comfortable enough to support causes we care about, help our adult kids when needed, take advantage of the city’s great culture, and go out for dinner with friends whenever possible.

May your years of struggle, building a home, working, raising a family, or however else you spend your time, culminate in years being surrounded by people you love, having something worthwhile to fill your days, and enjoying good health!

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G.P. Gottlieb
Crow’s Feet

Musician, reader, baker, master of snark, and author of the Whipped and Sipped culinary mystery series (gpgottlieb.com). Editor, Write and Review.