Merge branch 'develop' into bella-front-side-dart-seam-length

freesewing · Sep 28, 2024 · 2e5e25e · 2e5e25e
2 parents ea13f88 + ebf02b0
commit 2e5e25e
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diff --git a/designs/bee/src/cup.mjs b/designs/bee/src/cup.mjs
@@ -28,6 +28,7 @@ export const cup = {
     bustDartCurve: 1,
     bustDartLength: 1,
     waistDartLength: 1,
+    waistDartCurve: 1,
     backHemSlope: 2.5,
     backNeckCutout: 0.06,
     bustDartAngle: 0,

diff --git a/designs/bella/i18n/en.json b/designs/bella/i18n/en.json
@@ -58,6 +58,10 @@
       "t": "Bust dart minimum fabric",
       "d": "The minimum amount of side seam above and below the bust dart"
     },
+    "waistDartCurve": {
+      "t": "Waist dart curve",
+      "d": "Controls the curvature of the waist dart"
+    },
     "armholeDepth": {
       "t": "Armhole depth",
       "d": "Controls the depth of the armhole"

diff --git a/designs/bella/src/back.mjs b/designs/bella/src/back.mjs
@@ -36,6 +36,8 @@ export const back = {
     bustDartAngle: { count: 0, min: -45, max: 45, menu: 'darts' },
     bustDartMinimumFabric: { pct: 5, min: 1, max: 50, menu: 'darts' },
     waistDartLength: { pct: 90, min: 75, max: 95, menu: 'darts' },
+    waistDartCurve: { pct: 100, min: -100, max: 100, menu: 'darts' },
+    waistDartLength: { pct: 90, min: 75, max: 100, menu: 'darts' },
     // Armhole
     armholeDepth: { pct: 44, min: 38, max: 46, menu: 'armhole' },
     backArmholeCurvature: { pct: 63, min: 50, max: 85, menu: 'armhole' },

diff --git a/designs/bella/src/front-side-dart.mjs b/designs/bella/src/front-side-dart.mjs
@@ -173,6 +173,16 @@ export const frontSideDart = {
     let reduce = points.cfHem.dist(points.sideHemInitial) - hemLen
 
     // Waist dart
+    let includeWaistDart = true
+    if (reduce <= 0) {
+      includeWaistDart = false
+      log.info(
+        '`' +
+          part.name +
+          '`: Front waist dart omitted (because the calculated dart' +
+          ' width was 0.0 mm/inches or less).'
+      )
+    }
     points.waistDartHem = new Point(points.bust.x, points.cfHem.y)
     points.waistDartLeft = points.waistDartHem.shift(180, reduce / 2)
     points.waistDartRight = points.waistDartHem.shift(0, reduce / 2)
@@ -188,12 +198,28 @@ export const frontSideDart = {
       90,
       points.waistDartHem.dist(points.bust) / 2
     )
-
-    paths.seam = new Path()
-      .move(points.cfHem)
+    // Apply option-controlled curvature to waist dart
+    points.waistDartLeftMid = new Path()
+      .move(points.bust)
       .line(points.waistDartLeft)
-      .curve_(points.waistDartLeftCp, points.waistDartTip)
-      ._curve(points.waistDartRightCp, points.waistDartRight)
+      .shiftFractionAlong(0.5)
+    points.waistDartRightMid = new Path()
+      .move(points.bust)
+      .line(points.waistDartRight)
+      .shiftFractionAlong(0.5)
+    const waistDartCpWidth =
+      points.waistDartLeftMid.dist(points.waistDartLeftCp) * options.waistDartCurve
+    points.waistDartLeftCp.x = points.waistDartLeftMid.x - waistDartCpWidth
+    points.waistDartRightCp.x = points.waistDartRightMid.x + waistDartCpWidth
+
+    paths.seam = new Path().move(points.cfHem)
+    if (includeWaistDart)
+      paths.seam
+        .line(points.waistDartLeft)
+        .curve_(points.waistDartLeftCp, points.waistDartTip)
+        ._curve(points.waistDartRightCp, points.waistDartRight)
+        .line(points.waistDartRight)
+    paths.seam
       .line(points.sideHem)
       .line(points.bustDartBottom)
       ._curve(points.bustDartCpBottom, points.bustDartTip)
@@ -207,10 +233,9 @@ export const frontSideDart = {
       .close()
       .attr('class', 'fabric')
 
-    paths.saBase = new Path()
-      .move(points.cfHem)
-      .line(points.waistDartLeft)
-      .line(points.waistDartRight)
+    paths.saBase = new Path().move(points.cfHem)
+    if (includeWaistDart) paths.saBase.line(points.waistDartLeft).line(points.waistDartRight)
+    paths.saBase
       .line(points.sideHem)
       .line(points.bustDartBottom)
       .line(points.bustDartEdge)
@@ -269,29 +294,33 @@ export const frontSideDart = {
     })
 
     // Dimensions
-    macro('vd', {
-      id: 'hCfHemToWaistDartTop',
-      from: points.cfHem,
-      to: points.waistDartTip,
-      x: 0 - 15,
-    })
+    let dimensionOffset = 0
+    if (includeWaistDart) {
+      dimensionOffset = 15
+      macro('vd', {
+        id: 'hCfHemToWaistDartTop',
+        from: points.cfHem,
+        to: points.waistDartTip,
+        x: 0 - 15,
+      })
+    }
     macro('vd', {
       id: 'hCfHemToBustPoint',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.bust,
-      x: 0 - 30,
+      x: 0 - 15 - dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('vd', {
       id: 'hCfHemToNeckCutout',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.cfNeck,
-      x: 0 - 45,
+      x: 0 - 30 - dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('vd', {
       id: 'hTotal',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.hps,
-      x: 0 - 60,
+      x: 0 - 45 - dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('hd', {
       id: 'wCfToWaistDartTip',
@@ -305,35 +334,39 @@ export const frontSideDart = {
       to: points.bustDartTip,
       y: points.bust.y - 30,
     })
-    macro('hd', {
-      id: 'wCfToWaistDartLeft',
-      from: points.cfHem,
-      to: points.waistDartLeft,
-      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 15,
-    })
-    macro('hd', {
-      id: 'wCfToWaistDartRight',
-      from: points.cfHem,
-      to: points.waistDartRight,
-      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 30,
-    })
+    dimensionOffset = 0
+    if (includeWaistDart) {
+      dimensionOffset = 30
+      macro('hd', {
+        id: 'wCfToWaistDartLeft',
+        from: points.cfHem,
+        to: points.waistDartLeft,
+        y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 15,
+      })
+      macro('hd', {
+        id: 'wCfToWaistDartRight',
+        from: points.cfHem,
+        to: points.waistDartRight,
+        y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 30,
+      })
+    }
     macro('hd', {
       id: 'wHemTotal',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.sideHem,
-      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 45,
+      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 15 + dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('hd', {
       id: 'wCfHemToBustDartBottom',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.bustDartBottom,
-      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 60,
+      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 30 + dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('hd', {
       id: 'wCfHemToBustDartTop',
       from: points.cfHem,
       to: points.bustDartTop,
-      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 75,
+      y: points.cfHem.y + sa + 45 + dimensionOffset,
     })
     macro('vd', {
       id: 'hHemRightToBustDartBottom',

diff --git a/designs/bent/src/sleeve.mjs b/designs/bent/src/sleeve.mjs
@@ -5,7 +5,8 @@ function draftBentSleeve({ Path, paths, points, store, options, part }) {
     let { Point, Path, points, store, options, measurements, utils } = part.shorthand()
     // Sleeve frame
     points.top = new Point(0, 0)
-    points.boxTopRight = points.top.shift(0, (store.get('sleevecapTarget') / 5.8) * tweak)
+    const easedQuarterBiceps = (measurements.biceps / 4) * (1 + options.bicepsEase)
+    points.boxTopRight = points.top.shift(0, easedQuarterBiceps * tweak)
     points.boxTopLeft = points.boxTopRight.flipX()
     points.boxBottom = points.top.shift(
       -90,

diff --git a/designs/cornelius/src/front.mjs b/designs/cornelius/src/front.mjs
@@ -50,18 +50,21 @@ export const front = {
       waistAngle -= 180
     }
 
+    const flyConst = 14
+    store.set('flyConst',flyConst)
+
     points.flyTop = points.pW.shift(
       points.pW.angle(points.pZ) - 180 + waistAngle,
-      halfInch * flyWidth
+      flyConst * flyWidth
     )
     points.flyBottom = points.flyTop.shift(
       points.pW.angle(points.pZ),
-      points.pW.dist(points.pZ) - halfInch * flyWidth
+      points.pW.dist(points.pZ) - flyConst * flyWidth
     )
 
     points.pZcpFB = points.pZ.shift(
       points.pW.angle(points.pZ) - waistAngle,
-      halfInch * flyWidth * cc
+      flyConst * flyWidth * cc
     )
     points.pFBcpZ = points.flyBottom.shift(points.pW.angle(points.pZ), halfInch * flyWidth * cc)
 

diff --git a/designs/cornelius/src/zipperguard.mjs b/designs/cornelius/src/zipperguard.mjs
@@ -6,8 +6,8 @@ export const zipperguard = {
   draft: ({ Point, Path, points, paths, Snippet, snippets, sa, store, macro, part }) => {
     const cc = 0.551915024494 // circle constant
 
-    const halfInch = store.get('halfInch')
-    const flyWidth = store.get('flyWidth') * halfInch
+    const flyConst = store.get('flyConst')
+    const flyWidth = store.get('flyWidth') * flyConst
     const flyLength = store.get('flyLength')
 
     points.pA = new Point(0, 0)

diff --git a/designs/gozer/src/ghost.mjs b/designs/gozer/src/ghost.mjs
@@ -2,15 +2,17 @@ export const ghost = {
   name: 'gozer.ghost',
   measurements: ['hpsToWaistBack', 'waistToFloor', 'head'],
   draft: ({ measurements, Point, points, Snippet, snippets, sa, macro, part }) => {
-    const eyeSize = measurements.head * 0.0416
+    const eyeSize = measurements.head * (1 / 24)
+    const eyeLine = measurements.head / 2.25
+    const eyeOffset = measurements.head * (1 / 12.7)
     const size =
       measurements.hpsToWaistBack + measurements.waistToFloor + measurements.head / Math.PI
 
     points.middle = new Point(0, 0).addCircle(size, 'fabric')
 
-    points.eyeLine = points.middle.shift(270, measurements.head / Math.PI / 2)
-    points.eyeLeft = points.eyeLine.shift(180, measurements.head * 0.13)
-    points.eyeRight = points.eyeLine.shift(0, measurements.head * 0.13)
+    points.eyeLine = points.middle.shift(270, eyeLine)
+    points.eyeLeft = points.eyeLine.shift(180, eyeOffset)
+    points.eyeRight = points.eyeLine.shift(0, eyeOffset)
     points.left = new Point(-1 * size, 0)
     points.right = new Point(size, 0)
 

diff --git a/designs/huey/i18n/en.json b/designs/huey/i18n/en.json
@@ -33,6 +33,10 @@
       "t": "Pocket height",
       "d": "Controls the height of the pocket"
     },
+    "pocketOpening": {
+      "t": "Pocket opening",
+      "d": "Controls the opening size of the pocket"
+    },
     "hoodHeight": {
       "t": "Hood height",
       "d": "Controls the height of the hood"

diff --git a/designs/huey/src/front.mjs b/designs/huey/src/front.mjs
@@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ function draftHueyFront({
   points.pocketTopRight = points.pocketCfTop.shift(0, points.hem.x * options.pocketWidth)
   points.pocketTip = new Point(
     points.pocketTopRight.x * 1.2,
-    points.pocketTopRight.y + (points.hem.y - points.pocketTopRight.y) * 0.9
+    points.pocketTopRight.y + (points.hem.y - points.pocketTopRight.y) * options.pocketOpening
   )
   points.pocketHem = new Point(
     points.pocketTopRight.x + points.pocketTopRight.dx(points.pocketTip) / 2,
@@ -134,6 +134,7 @@ export const front = {
     pocket: { bool: true, menu: 'style' },
     pocketHeight: { pct: 30, min: 25, max: 35, menu: 'style' },
     pocketWidth: { pct: 60, min: 50, max: 70, menu: 'style' },
+    pocketOpening: { pct: 90, min: 60, max: 90, menu: 'style' },
   },
   draft: draftHueyFront,
 }
diff --git a/designs/noble/src/options.mjs b/designs/noble/src/options.mjs
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ export const bustDartCurve = 1
 export const bustDartLength = 0.9
 export const bustDartAngle = 0
 export const bustDartMinimumFabric = 0
+export const waistDartCurve = 1
 // Percentages
 export const bustSpanEase = { pct: 0, min: -5, max: 20, ...pctBasedOn('bustSpan'), menu: 'fit' }
 export const backHemSlope = { deg: 2.5, min: 0, max: 5, menu: 'advanced' }

diff --git a/designs/opal/src/back.mjs b/designs/opal/src/back.mjs
@@ -639,8 +639,8 @@ export const back = {
   after: bib,
   draft: draftBack,
   options: {
-    // What angle the back bib leaves the outseam at. 0 is horizontal, 90 is vertical.
-    backBibBaseAngle: { deg: 25, min: 0, max: 90, menu: 'style' },
+    // What angle the back bib leaves the outseam at. 0 is horizontal, 90 would be vertical.
+    backBibBaseAngle: { deg: 25, min: 0, max: 85, menu: 'style' },
     // How deep to make the curve connecting the top of the outseam with the hexagon of the back bib.
     backBibBaseCurve: { pct: 40, min: 0, max: 100, menu: 'style' },
     // How high up the hexagon of the back bib is located. 0% refers to the waist, while 100% refers to the HPS.

diff --git a/designs/simone/src/fba-front.mjs b/designs/simone/src/fba-front.mjs
@@ -24,6 +24,12 @@ function simoneFbaFront({
    * Once drafted, we add the FBA, which is what happens in this file
    */
 
+  /*
+   * Locate bust point
+   */
+  points.bust = new Point(measurements.bustSpan / 2, points.neck.y + measurements.hpsToBust)
+  points.cfBust = new Point(0, points.bust.y)
+
   /*
    * How much room to we need to create to fit the breasts?
    * Note that:
@@ -37,18 +43,13 @@ function simoneFbaFront({
    * If the FBA is negative, that means the high bust measurement is higher than the
    * front bust. That's not uncommon for people who don't have much breast tissue but
    * it generates a negative dart which is confusing and incorrect. So in that case, just
-   * return the original part from simon
+   * return the part from Simon without any adjustments.
    */
   if (FBA < 0) {
     log.info('No FBA required, using unaltered Simon front')
     return part
   }
 
-  /*
-   * Locate bust point
-   */
-  points.bust = new Point(measurements.bustSpan / 2, points.neck.y + measurements.hpsToBust)
-
   /*
    * Figure out how much do we need to open a dart to create the required FBA room
    */